Bangkok: Where the sabbatical begins!

The long-awaited 6-month sabbatical finally started with the Southeast Asia leg as we kick off 2026, and there was only one obvious place to start: Bangkok.

Hot, loud, chaotic, spiritual, modern, ancient—often all at once. Locals call it Krung Thep, meaning City of Angels; “Bangkok” is just the foreign nickname that stuck. It is also, officially, the most visited city in the world. With over 400 temples, Michelin-star street food served on plastic stools, and more 7-Elevens than seems physically possible, Bangkok shouldn’t work—but somehow, it does.

We based ourselves in the Old Town, in the Phra Nakhon district—close to temples, canals, and the historic heart of the city. After landing at Suvarnabhumi Airport (which literally means Land of Gold), we took the Airport Rail Link to Phaya Thai, the easiest way into the city. Stepping outside, we were hit by a warm 30-degree night breeze and immediately started giggling—back in the UK it was snowing, and here we were, mentally switching into shorts and flip-flops. Then reality hit: Bangkok rush hour.

Grab (the SEA super-app that had been our lifeline in Vietnam, Singapore, and and Bali) completely failed us—no driver wanted to commit to the traffic. Eventually, I waved down a local taxi and negotiated our way to the hotel with a mix of hand gestures, smiles, and borderline begging. No English. Cash only. Somehow, it worked. And it was cheaper than Grab. Welcome to Thailand.

Day 1: Jet Lag, Canals, and Neon Lights

Jet lag won decisively. We woke up at 2:30 pm, wandered out in search of food and coffee, and ended up at a quiet café by a canal. Bangkok is often called the Venice of the East because of its network of canals feeding into the Chao Phraya River, which splits the city in two. Life here still revolves around water—and giant catfish. Locals were feeding them, and apparently they’re protected and not allowed to be eaten. They looked very aware of that privilege.

Once we felt vaguely human again, we wandered through the Old Town: Rattanakosin Road, Giant Swing by the City Hall, Democracy Monument, Wat Ratchanatdaram (Metal Temple), and finally Pak Khlong Talat, the flower market. Vendors were busy threading marigolds into temple garlands, turning the whole area a glowing orange.

At sunset, we crossed the Chao Phraya Sky Park bridge, watched the skyline fade into dusk, and then headed to Song Wat Road—street art, cool cafés, and Bangkok’s more creative side. You know you’re in a trendy area when coffee is called things like Dirty Coconut or Thai milk comes in a beer can.

Dinner took us straight into Yaowarat (Chinatown)—chaotic, neon-lit, and overwhelming in the best way. Food stalls everywhere, people stopping mid-road for photos, lights stacked on top of lights. We had chicken rice from a place confidently claiming to be the best in town—and honestly, it lived up to it.

Day 2: Temples, Tuk-Tuks, and a Classic Bangkok Scam

Day 2 was supposed to be Grand Palace day. Instead, we accidentally signed up for Bangkok Scam: The Cultural Edition.

On our way to breakfast, we stopped at Wat Pavaranivesh (temples are everywhere, and it’s impossible not to peek inside). A friendly local struck up conversation—where we’re from, what we’re doing today, and oh look, here’s a handy map of nearby temples.

Then came the twist:“The Grand Palace is closed today due to mourning for the Queen Mother.” I knew she had passed away months ago, but he showed us road closures on the map, which made it sound convincing. He suggested an alternative: a government-approved tuk-tuk tour, three hours, only 100 baht, marked with Thai and royal flags. Suspiciously cheap. We walked away, debated over breakfast, ignored our gut feeling—and went back.

The tuk-tuk ride itself was actually great. It was my first time, and I was fully loving life. The driver took us to several temples: Wat Bowonniwetwiharn, Wat Sommanat (Happy Buddha), and Wat Ratchanatdaram again.

Then things shifted.

He asked if we wanted to stop at a “fashion house” for custom suits and dresses. We said no. Then he said he would get free petrol if we just stopped by. Feeling mildly guilty, we agreed. The shop was exactly what you imagine: aggressive salesman, fake designer magazines, “today only” discounts. We stayed less than two minutes. Outside, dozens of tuk-tuks were parked, all delivering tourists to the same place. Our driver’s face when we walked out empty-handed was… unforgettable.

A quick ChatGPT search confirmed it: the classic Bangkok tuk-tuk scam—“main attraction closed,” cheap ride, temple hopping, tailor stop. Lesson learned.

By noon, it was hot, we were tired, and my caffeine levels were dangerously low. We escaped to a café to regroup and re-planned the day.

We needed to tick off some life admin—Hep B and Japanese encephalitis vaccines—which, conveniently, are much cheaper and easier in Bangkok than in London. We headed to the Thai Red Cross Hospital using the BTS and MRT (Bangkok’s elevated metro is great for people-watching from above), plus a ferry—always the best way to move around the city.

Later that afternoon, we headed to Wat Paknam Phasi Charoen, home to one of Bangkok’s largest Buddhas. Seeing it emerge at sunset was genuinely breathtaking and completely redeemed the day. Massive, calm, glowing—it took a moment to fully process what we were seeing. We hopped back in a tuk-tuk, returned to the Old Town, had Thai food, and called it a day.

Day 3: The Grand Palace (Finally)

Determined to finally see the Grand Palace, I made an early start to beat the crowds. Matt opted for alternative museums, so it was solo travel mode for me.

The palace was as spectacular—and as busy—as expected. Built in 1782, it served as the royal residence for generations and remains the symbolic heart of Thailand, even though the royal family no longer lives there.

I also visited the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles, which tells the story of how Thai silk was revived and reintroduced to the world. Queen Sirikit played a key role in supporting rural artisans and turning traditional fabrics into global fashion statements. Seeing her 1960s travel wardrobe—modern designs made with Thai silk—made it clear why she remains such a cultural icon here.

I continued on to Wat Phra Kaew (Emerald Buddha), Thailand’s most sacred religious image, and Wat Pho (Reclining Buddha) with 46 metres long - the statue represents the Buddha at the moment of entering nirvana, and the temple complex is also considered the birthplace of traditional Thai massage. Lots of monks in orange robes moved quietly through the crowds, with their smartphones, was quite a scene to watch!

After this sightseeing and crowds, I decided that I reached my tourist limit. I headed back, stopped at 7-Eleven (a national treasure), grabbed freshly cut pineapple from a street stall, and ordered Pad Thai from a tiny place that turned out to have a Michelin star. Casual.

For our last evening, we wanted a rooftop view—but on an unpaid sabbatical budget. The solution? The terrace at ICONSIAM, a massive riverside mall with free skyline views. Watching the sunset and city lights from there was the perfect ending to our Bangkok stay.

Day 4: One Last Temple and Goodbye Bangkok

Before our 5 pm flight to Northern Thailand, there was one last must-see: Wat Arun. (because I didn't have mental capacity yesterday lol) Luckily, it was just a short boat ride from Phra Arthit Pier. It is called 'the Temple of Dawn', rises directly from the river and is decorated with porcelain mosaics from old trading ships—simple, elegant, and best seen glowing at sunset (still charming on a midday sun)

Then it was back to the hotel, pack, traffic again, Airport Rail Link, and finally one of the best airport lounges I’ve ever been to. A back massage while sipping a Siam mojito at the airport? Yes please.

One-hour flight with Thai Airways (loved their purple-coloured wraps and water), and off we went. Accompanying my yellow travel buddy, time for journalling above the clouds!

Chiang Rai—here we come.

Some recommendations:

• Dinner: Tanbo Chicken Rice (Chinatown), Kajohn Authentic Southern Thai Cuisine (Pad Thai & Yellow curry), Food court at Iconsam

• Breakfast/Brunch: Cafe Velodome, Bendi Cafe

• Coffee: Local Boys, Green Coat Cafe

• Hotel: Villa Bangkok

Quotes on road: ‘You don’t need to know anything. Everything you need to know, you’ll figure out when you need to know it. Even if you miscalculate and make the wrong decision, you needed to know that. Pain is knowledge rushing in to fill a gap. Pain is a lot of information really quick’ - Jerry Seinfeld, Comedians in car getting coffee’

Background music during the trip: Lily Allen - ‘West End Girl’ album. #4chanstan