Luang Prabang: Days on the Mekong Riverside

Secil Ural
Jan 23
5 min read

For the third and final destination of our Laos trip, we headed further north to Luang Prabang.

Luang Prabang served as the capital of Laos until 1975, when the monarchy was abolished following the communist takeover at the end of the Laotian Civil War. Its name is deeply sacred, coming from the Phra Bang, a Buddha-statue gift from the Khmer King at Angkor in the 14th century to help establish Buddhism in the region, which is kept in the Royal Palace Museum.

To get here from Vang Vieng, we hopped back on the LCR Railway. The journey was incredibly fast—just about an hour—and once again, we were joined by hundreds of Chinese tourists making the most of this high-speed link.

However, the "modern" part of the trip ended at the station. It took almost an hour by taxi to reach our hotel in the town center because the roads are in rough shape, filled with potholes, thick dust, and constant construction. This has been a recurring theme for us in Laos: map distances may be short, but travel takes ages. It’s definitely worth avoiding tuk-tuks for these long station transfers unless you want to arrive at your hotel completely covered in red dust!

However, once we finally pulled into the heart of Luang Prabang, the bumpy ride was immediately forgotten. We checked into our small but charming hotel and instantly felt the town’s magic.

Luang Prabang is incredibly picturesque, nestled right on the banks of the Mekong—the longest river in Southeast Asia—at its intersection with the Nam Khan River. One of the coolest things to see is the 'meeting of the waters' at the tip of the peninsula; you can actually spot the distinct line where the two rivers merge due to the different colours of the water.

Luang Prabang became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1995, which explains why it feels like a town frozen in time. Because of its protected status, no buses or large trucks are allowed in the Old Town, and there are strict rules against neon signs and high-rise buildings.

The French influence is everywhere—from the colonial architecture and shuttered windows to the cozy cafes and chic decor. The town is famous for a unique style called Lao-Colonial Fusion, a beautiful blend of traditional Lao tiered-roof temples and French 'Beaux-Arts' brick and timber buildings. It creates an atmosphere that is both sophisticated and deeply spiritual.

After dropping off our luggage, we headed straight to the riverside. We grabbed coffee and lunch at a café overlooking the water, soaking in the atmosphere of the mighty Mekong. As usual, we wandered around for a mini-exploration and eventually 'parked' ourselves at a spot with a view to do some journaling. It was the perfect, peaceful setup—or so I thought. What I didn’t realise was that in the late afternoon, Luang Prabang becomes a literal party zone for mosquitoes. I was bitten in ten different places in under thirty minutes!

After that unexpected "war" with the mosquitoes, I rushed back to the hotel to gear up. Suited in jeans and a long-sleeved top, I headed back out to hit the Night Food Market, and it did not disappoint. We spent the evening sampling various street food nibbles and toasted the night with a Luang Prabang beer! To top it all off, we found a local gelato shop. I never thought salted caramel with pandan would be on my flavor list, but wow—what a combination!

The next day, we set out to explore the town center, starting with the stunning temples and the Royal Palace Museum (also known as Haw Kham), where the royal family once lived has been preserved as a museum.

It was fascinating to walk through the private living quarters of the last King and Queen—from their bedrooms and living areas to the royal crown itself. One of the most unique aspects was the collection of diplomatic gifts from around the world, including the UK, Thailand, Japan, and the US. They are actually grouped into "socialist" and "capitalist" donors, which is such an interesting, literal way to organise a museum!

For me, the true highlight was the Throne Hall. The walls are covered in breathtaking red glass mosaics—intricate designs made of shattered mirrored glass that depict Laotian life and legends. This mosaic style is a signature of Luang Prabang, and watching the light catch the glass was incredible.

After a quick lunch (delicious bamboo salad!) and a wander through the town, we hopped on a local boat to watch the sunset on the Mekong. We opted for a simple slow boat—it was much more budget-friendly than the dinner-inclusive cruises, but the views during the 1.5-hour trip were just as incredible. For dinner, we ended up back at the Night Market again; clearly, we’re obsessed!

On our final day, we had an early start for the famous Kuang Si Falls. To avoid the high prices of organized tours, we did some digging and found a local "green bus" that departs from a nearby station. After a quick tuk-tuk dash, we miraculously snagged the last two tickets for the 9:30 AM departure.

The 50-minute journey was a bumpy one, but the destination was breathtaking. We walked uphill, following the tiered cascades until we reached one of the most picturesque waterfalls I’ve ever seen. The water was a startling, creamy turquoise—it looked exactly like a painting. Local legend says that a wise man once dug a hole at the site of the falls, and the water that emerged was so beautiful a golden deer came to live under a rock there. This is why the falls are named "Kuang" (Deer) and "Si" (to dig).

We also spent time at the Free the Bears sanctuary right at the entrance, which was a lovely bonus. It was moving to see the rescued Asiatic Black Bears—often called "Moon Bears" because of the white crescent-shaped fur on their chests. Most of them were saved from the illegal wildlife trade or "bile farms" by the charity, and seeing them lounging in such a lush environment was heartening.

We caught the bus back just in time for lunch. While Matt was keen to dive into more museums and culture, my priority was a well-deserved foot massage—a day well spent for both of us!

To wrap up our time in Luang Prabang, we climbed Mount Phousi (and yes, the pronunciation can be a bit misleading!). To get that iconic sunset view, you have to climb exactly 328 steps to the top of this "sacred hill." While it was crowded at sunset, the 360-degree view of the river delta and the town below was absolutely worth the effort.

We ended our Laos adventure with a tasting menu at Tamarind, a famous cooking school and restaurant. It requires booking in advance, but for the chance to sample authentic Laotian flavors one last time, it was the perfect culinary finale we needed to wrap up our time in Laos!