Phnom Penh: Cambodia's Capital, The City of Rebirth

Our journey from Thailand to Cambodia felt heavier than a typical border crossing, as our travel intersected with a period of unfortunate and escalating border conflict.

Despite being neighbours with cultures deeply intertwined for centuries, these two countries are surprisingly disconnected. Poor infrastructure and long-standing political friction have made transportation a challenge; in fact, as of early 2026, land borders are largely closed to foreigners due to military tensions, and direct flights remain quite expensive due to the limited options.

As I read more about this "complicated relationship," I learned about a history stretching back to the Khmer Empire, the most powerful kingdom in Southeast Asia between the 9th and 15th centuries. At its peak, it spanned almost all of modern-day Cambodia, Thailand, Laos, and southern Vietnam. However, as the empire declined, the rising Siam Empire (now Thailand) began seizing territory, eventually leading to the collapse of the Khmer capital.

The 19th and 20th centuries only added layers of complexity: French colonialism, the Japanese invasion in WWII, and the spillover of the Vietnam War. During the colonial era, France pressured Thailand into ceding several provinces back to Cambodia—land that Thailand felt was rightfully theirs. This historical "tug-of-war" over territory and national pride remains a raw nerve.

It is clear that these border disputes are just the latest chapter in a much older story, defined by centuries of shifting power between empires and the imperial politics.

Back to our actual journey—after that long introduction! :)

Because the land borders were so unstable due to the conflict, the most feasible route was to take a domestic flight from Chiang Mai to Bangkok before catching our final connection. After a few hours recharging in the lounge, we landed at Phnom Penh’s massive, shiny new airport (Techo International), which opened just a few months ago. The roof is a stunning "modular tree canopy" inspired by Cambodia’s tropical forests—a beautiful first impression!

Phnom Penh (pronounced p’nohm-pinh) literally means "Penh’s Hill" and situated at the intersection of 3 rivers: Mekong, Tonle Sap, and Bassac rivers.

After an hour of navigating the city’s heavy traffic, we finally arrived at our hotel in the evening. Once we dropped our bags, our first priority was getting some cash—Cambodia is one of those rare countries where two currencies (USD and Riel) are in active use simultaneously. Wandering the streets afterward, we watched locals chilling on the sidewalks and tuk-tuk drivers buzzing around; the atmosphere felt lively yet cozy, like a blend of traditional urban living and a fast-growing modern city. We ended our long travel day at a local BBQ spot, enjoying a late-night feast before heading back to get some rest.

Our first full day in the capital began at the Royal Palace. We spent time walking around the grounds, including visiting the Silver Pagoda. Cambodia’s monarchy is one of the oldest in the world, yet it was completely abolished during the civil war and Khmer Rouge era, only to be restored in 1993. Unlike the British or Thai monarchies, the Kingdom of Cambodia (the country's official name) does not follow a direct bloodline succession. Instead, the King is elected for life by the Royal Council of the Throne from among royal descendants - how interesting!

After a coffee break by the riverside, we returned to our hotel for a quiet afternoon by the pool. Watching the sunset over the skyline, it's clear that by the sheer amount of construction Phnom Penh is a city literally building itself back from the ashes, with cranes and skyscrapers rising from a landscape that was once a ghost town.

The following morning was perhaps the hardest of our journey: a visit to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21). We chose this over the Killing Fields due to its central location, but the impact was still devastating. It is a heartbreaking site—a former high school turned into a torture center by the Khmer Rouge.

Standing there, it’s impossible not to feel how the city’s beauty is shadowed by this somber history. From 1975 to 1979, Phnom Penh became a "Ghost City" when the regime forced the entire population into the countryside, leaving the capital empty for nearly four years. Learning about the cruelty inflicted during this time—where nearly one-fourth of the population perished (around 2 million people!)—was overwhelming. Reading the individual stories of those who died on these very grounds, just one of over a hundred such camps across the country, served as a haunting reminder of the darkest side of humanity.

Standing there, I couldn't help but reflect on how history repeats itself. Realizing that similar forms of devastation and mass suffering still exist today, particularly in the Middle East, was truly gut-wrenching. It was a difficult morning, but an essential one to truly understand the resilience of the Cambodian spirit.

To decompress after a somber morning, we visited the famous Central Market. We wandered through the sprawling yellow Art Deco dome, eventually grabbing a pastry from a French bakery (reminder of colonial times) We ended our stay with a final Khmer feast at our hotel before preparing for the bus journey to the country's most famous destination the next day.

Leaving Phnom Penh, I felt a strange mix of heavy-heartedness and intense admiration. It isn’t a city that hides its scars; it wears them openly. It embraces the past, lives fully in the present, and looks toward a bright future of growth. It teaches you that while humans are capable of unimaginable cruelty, we are also capable of an even more powerful rebirth.

Next Stop: Siem Reap, Cambodia!

Wrapping up Phnom Penh:

Local recommendations:

• Breakfast or Lunch: Pu Rock Cafe, Borisoth Cafe

• Dinner: Blossom Restaurant

• Coffee: Tube Coffee, Selapak Coffee and Eatery, Mumu Coffee

• Hotel: Caravan Hotel by EHM

  
  

Quote of the trip: "Cambodia is a country that has been to the edge of the abyss and back. Its people have a resilience that is both humbling and inspiring." - Anthony Bourdain, No Reservations.

Suggestions to watch & read about Cambodia:

• "First They Killed My Father" (Book or Film): Story of the Khmer Rouge’s takeover through the eyes of a child. The film adaptation (directed by Angelina Jolie) was actually filmed in Cambodia. Available on Netflix.

• "Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner" (Season 1, Episode 4 - Phnom Penh): Chef David Chang tours Phnom Penh with Kate McKinnon (love her from SNL).

• Last but not least (and obviously) -> No Reservations: Cambodia: Anthony Bourdain not only showing the food but also the soul of the Cambodian people.