Chiang Rai: Colours of Northern Thailand

Our first domestic flight in Thailand took us from the heat of Bangkok to the cooler northern air of Chiang Rai. Arriving in the evening, the temperature drop was immediate—we finally swapped our summer gear for hoodies! As usual, we hopped in a Grab and headed toward the town center.

Chiang Rai is a small, sleepy, and wonderfully slow-moving town. It served as the first capital of the Lanna Kingdom before its bigger sister, Chiang Mai, was established. Today, it’s known as the artistic heart of the north, acting as a gateway to the 'Golden Triangle' where Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar meet. Also, home to the most colorful temples of the northern Thailand.

Our adventure began at our hotel - It’s a cute, European-themed spot (a total surprise we didn't realize when booking, lol!) and easily one of the most budget-friendly stays of our entire trip.

Exhausted from travel, we tucked into a local restaurant for our first taste of the North. I had one of the most traditional northern food, Gaeng Hang Le (a rich, ginger-heavy pork belly curry), loved it. The meal came with a side of entertainment—traditional dancers appeared mid-dinner! It was a bit awkward and funny, especially since they were half-naked, but it was a memorable 'welcome' to the local culture.

The beauty of slow travel: no rush. We spent our first day leaning into the 'me day' vibe. While Matt went for his daily run, I spent my morning at a coffee shop journaling, followed by an incredibly cheap Thai massage. I spent the afternoon wandering spontaneously, marveling at the ornate (and slightly over-the-top) Golden Clock Tower and the local farmers' market. I finally picked up a traditional long skirt—the 'SEA look' is officially here, and now I’m actually temple-ready.

We ended the day with Asian fusion for dinner. I tried Drunken Noodles for the first time and wow... it was HOT! Even the Oolong tea couldn't put out the fire!

On our second day, we opted for a private driver after realizing it cost nearly the same as a group tour, but gave us total freedom. Our driver Mr. Big was a Chiang Rai local who seemed to know everyone in town. He spoke a little bit English but we managed to communicate well somehow! Our itinerary for the day:

1. Wat Rong Khun (The White Temple)

The "primary color" of Chiang Rai is white. This isn't an ancient temple; it’s a modern masterpiece and the bridge crossing represents the transition from the cycle of rebirth to the "Abode of Buddha." The hundreds of reaching hands below the bridge represent human desire and suffering. The most hilarious part was the Golden Toilet (and yes we definitely tried on our way out, what a luxury!). The contrast is intentional: the White Temple represents the mind (heavenly), while the Golden building represents the body and worldly desires (earthly).

2. Khun Korn Waterfall

After a heavy dose of architecture, we headed into the jungle for a hike to Khun Korn to give a break to the temples. Mr Big warned us to watch out for the green snakes and luckily we survived to watch the beautiful tall waterfall at the end.

3. Singha Park & Tea Plantations

A quick stop at the iconic giant gold Singha statue (famous Thai beer) and we took in the views of the rolling tea plantations. Mr Big insisted to take our pictures in different angles at the viewing area, so we had to follow his orders.

4. Wat Huay Pla Kang (Big Buddha)

Often called the Big Buddha, the massive white statue is actually Guanyin, the Goddess of Mercy. We took the elevator to the 25th floor (inside the statue’s head!) for a 360-degree view of the valley. Then, we visited the 9-story pagoda right next to it and got a Buddhist chant stuck in our heads. It was so catchy I actually shazamed it for our sabbatical Spotify list!

Surprise of the day: Mr. Big recommended a 20-baht (50p) Pad Thai nearby. After our Bangkok "scam trauma," we didn't believe the price—but it was real, and it was delicious! We followed it with 10-baht (25p) coconut ice cream. Sweet life, indeed.

5. Baan Dam Museum (The Black House)

Next was the moody, dark contrast to the morning. It is not actually a temple but an art estate, and actually intended it to represent the cycle of life, death, and decay. It's full of buffalo horns, snake skins, and even real crocodile skins on the dining tables. It was a bit creepy and definitely not my cup of tea, but visually, I'd still recommend to have a visit.

6. Wat Rong Suea Ten (The Blue Temple)

Our final stop was the sapphire-blue temple close to the town center. By this point, our "temple batteries" were running low and it felt almost like an amusement park, so we wrapped the tour and said goodbye to Mr Big!

We finished the day with the king of Northern Thai dishes: Khao Soi. It’s a rich, coconut-curry noodle soup topped with crispy fried noodles. It was "heaven in a bowl" and easily the best Thai food we’ve had so far.

Chiang Rai was the perfect, slow-moving start to our journey. Next Stop: Chiang Mai!

Wrapping up Chiang Rai:

Local recommendations:

• Dinner: Tong Tung, ตงไห่หลง, น้ำเงี้ยว ข้าวซอย(รอบเกาะ) khao soi rob kho

• Coffee: 22Grams Espresso Bar, GreenHut

• Hotel: Nai Suan B&B

Quote of the trip: "I remember the moment I first realized I've been living my whole life in black and white. It was like discovering a color I never knew existed before. A whole new crayon box full of colors... Asia had ruined me for my old life." (Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown)

Soundtrack of the trip: Celestial Kiirtan - ลักยี่ไต่เม้งจิ๋ว (26 min long of Buddhist mediation, if you dare)